Walk into any denim store and you'll encounter a bewildering array of terminology: raw, sanforized, selvedge, stretch, organic, rinse wash, stonewash... Understanding what these terms mean isn't just about sounding knowledgeable—it helps you make informed decisions about quality, comfort, and value. This guide breaks down the most important denim types and what they mean for you as a buyer.
The Basics: What Is Denim?
Before exploring denim varieties, let's understand the fundamental fabric. Denim is a sturdy cotton twill fabric characterised by:
- Twill weave: A diagonal pattern created by passing the weft thread over one and under two (or more) warp threads
- Indigo dye: Only the warp (vertical) threads are dyed, while weft (horizontal) threads remain white—this is why denim fades to show white beneath
- Durability: The tight twill weave creates a strong, abrasion-resistant fabric
With that foundation, let's explore the varieties you'll encounter.
Raw vs. Washed Denim
Raw (Dry) Denim
Raw denim—also called "dry" or "unwashed"—is denim that hasn't been washed after the dyeing process. It comes stiff, dark, and uniform in colour. Key characteristics include:
- Stiffness: New raw denim is notably rigid and takes time to soften
- Deep colour: Maximum indigo saturation before any fading
- Personalised fading: Fades develop based on your wear patterns, creating unique character
- Shrinkage: Will shrink 5-10% on first wash if not sanforized
- Break-in period: Takes weeks or months of wear to become comfortable
Raw denim appeals to enthusiasts who want their jacket to develop unique character over time. The fading patterns—called "whiskers" at creases and "honeycombs" behind knees—tell the story of how you wear the garment.
🎨 Indigo Crocking
Raw denim will "crock"—transfer indigo dye onto other surfaces—especially when new. Expect some colour transfer to light-coloured items until the jacket is washed or well worn.
Washed Denim
Most denim you'll find in stores is pre-washed. This means the manufacturer has washed (and often treated) the fabric before sale. Benefits include:
- Softer immediately: Ready to wear comfortably from day one
- Predictable sizing: Most shrinkage has already occurred
- Minimal crocking: Less dye transfer to other items
- Various looks: Washing allows for different finishes and fades
For most people, pre-washed denim offers convenience without sacrificing quality. The jacket will still develop character over time, just with a head start.
Selvedge vs. Non-Selvedge Denim
Understanding Selvedge
"Selvedge" (or "selvage," meaning "self-edge") refers to denim woven on traditional shuttle looms. These looms create a clean, finished edge on the fabric, preventing fraying without additional processing.
Key characteristics of selvedge denim:
- Clean edge: Look for the distinctive coloured line (often red, white, or gold) on the inside seam
- Narrower fabric: Shuttle looms produce narrower fabric (typically 28-32 inches vs. 60+ inches for modern looms)
- Denser weave: Often tighter and heavier than mass-produced denim
- Higher quality: Generally superior cotton and more consistent construction
- Higher price: Production is slower and more labour-intensive
Non-Selvedge Denim
Modern projectile looms produce denim faster and wider, but the fabric edge frays and must be finished separately. This denim isn't inherently lower quality—many excellent jackets use non-selvedge fabric—but it's produced more efficiently and typically costs less.
💡 Selvedge Reality Check
Selvedge is often associated with premium quality, but the edge finish itself doesn't determine fabric quality. Excellent non-selvedge denim exists, and some selvedge is mediocre. The selvedge edge is primarily visible on cuffs and hems—it's a marker of traditional production, not a guarantee of superiority.
Denim Weight
Denim weight is measured in ounces per square yard (oz). This significantly affects how a jacket feels and wears:
Lightweight: 7-10oz
- Softer and more drape-y
- More comfortable in warm weather
- Breaks in quickly
- Less durable long-term
Mid-Weight: 10-14oz
- The most common range for jackets
- Good balance of comfort and durability
- Moderate break-in period
- Works year-round in most Australian climates
Heavyweight: 14oz+
- Very durable and structured
- Takes longer to break in
- Better for cooler weather
- Develops dramatic fades over time
- Popular among raw denim enthusiasts
Stretch Denim
Stretch denim incorporates elastane (spandex) or other stretch fibres into the weave. Modern stretch denim typically contains 1-3% elastane.
Benefits of Stretch
- Greater comfort and mobility
- Better shape retention after wearing
- More forgiving fit
- Easier to wear for extended periods
Considerations
- May feel less authentic to denim purists
- Can develop a "baggy" look over time in some blends
- Less dramatic fade patterns
- Some argue reduced durability (though modern blends address this)
For most wearers, a small percentage of stretch improves comfort significantly without noticeably affecting appearance or durability.
Organic and Sustainable Denim
As covered in our sustainability guide, organic denim uses cotton grown without synthetic pesticides or fertilisers. Look for certifications like GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard).
Sustainable denim may also feature:
- Recycled cotton content
- Water-saving production processes
- Natural indigo dyes
- Ethical labour practices
Sanforized vs. Unsanforized
Sanforized Denim
Sanforization is a pre-shrinking process that limits shrinkage to less than 1%. Most commercial denim is sanforized, meaning what you buy is approximately the size you'll keep.
Unsanforized Denim
Unsanforized (or "shrink-to-fit") denim hasn't been pre-shrunk and will shrink 5-10% on first wash. This requires buying larger than your usual size and accepting some unpredictability in the final fit.
Unsanforized denim is primarily of interest to raw denim enthusiasts who enjoy the process of breaking in and personalising their garments from scratch.
🎯 Denim Type Summary
- Raw denim: Unwashed, stiff, develops personal fade patterns
- Washed denim: Pre-washed, soft, predictable sizing
- Selvedge: Traditional loom production, often premium quality
- Stretch: Contains elastane for comfort and mobility
- Organic: Made from certified organic cotton
- Weight: Higher ounces = heavier, more durable fabric
Common Wash Treatments
Washed denim comes in various treatments that affect appearance:
- Rinse wash: Minimal washing, retains dark colour with slight softening
- Stone wash: Washed with pumice stones for a worn, faded appearance
- Enzyme wash: Uses enzymes to achieve soft hand feel and subtle fading
- Acid wash: Creates mottled, high-contrast fading (very 1980s)
- Bleach wash: Lightens denim significantly
- Distressed: Artificially worn areas, rips, and repairs
Which Type Is Right for You?
Choose Raw Denim If...
- You want a jacket that becomes uniquely yours over time
- You're patient enough for a break-in period
- You appreciate the process as much as the result
- You're willing to research care requirements
Choose Pre-Washed Denim If...
- You want comfortable wear from day one
- You prefer predictable sizing
- You want a specific colour/fade level immediately
- You're buying your first quality jacket
Choose Selvedge If...
- You value traditional craftsmanship
- You're willing to pay more for premium materials
- You like the visible selvedge detail on cuffs
- Quality construction is a priority
Choose Stretch Denim If...
- Comfort is your top priority
- You're active or wear your jacket for long periods
- You prefer a more fitted style
- You're less concerned with traditional denim aesthetics
Final Thoughts
Understanding denim types empowers you to make informed choices. There's no objectively "best" denim—the right choice depends on your priorities, whether that's instant comfort, long-term durability, unique personalisation, or environmental considerations.
For most first-time quality jacket buyers, we recommend starting with pre-washed, mid-weight (10-12oz), 100% cotton or minimal stretch denim. This combination offers the classic denim experience with immediate wearability. As you develop your preferences, you can explore raw denim, selvedge, or other specialised options.
For more guidance, check out our beginner's guide and history of denim.