How to Wash Your Denim Jacket Without Ruining It

Washing a denim jacket might seem straightforward, but improper care is the fastest way to fade that beautiful indigo colour, cause unwanted shrinkage, or damage the fabric's integrity. Whether you've invested in a premium selvedge jacket or picked up a reliable high-street option, understanding proper denim care will help your jacket look better and last longer. Here's our comprehensive guide to washing denim the right way.

When Should You Actually Wash Your Denim Jacket?

Here's a secret that surprises many denim newcomers: you shouldn't wash your denim jacket nearly as often as you might think. Unlike t-shirts or underwear, denim jackets don't sit directly against sweaty skin for extended periods, which means they don't accumulate odour and bacteria as quickly.

As a general rule, we recommend washing your denim jacket every 10-15 wears at most, unless it's visibly dirty or has developed an odour. Many denim enthusiasts—particularly those who own raw or selvedge denim—go even longer between washes, sometimes waiting six months or more to achieve those coveted natural fade patterns.

Spot Cleaning: Your First Line of Defence

Before reaching for the washing machine, consider whether spot cleaning might solve the problem. Minor stains, small dirt marks, or isolated spills can often be addressed without subjecting the entire jacket to a wash cycle.

For spot cleaning, dampen a clean cloth with cold water and a tiny amount of mild detergent. Gently dab—don't rub—the affected area. Rubbing can spread the stain and damage the indigo dye. After cleaning, use a separate cloth dampened with plain water to remove any detergent residue, then allow the area to air dry completely.

Preparing Your Jacket for Washing

When a full wash becomes necessary, proper preparation makes all the difference:

• Turn it inside out: This is perhaps the most important step. Turning your jacket inside out protects the outer surface from abrasion against the washing machine drum and other garments, preserving the colour much longer.
• Empty all pockets: Check every pocket for tissues, coins, or forgotten items that could damage the fabric or washing machine.
• Close all buttons and zippers: Fastening closures prevents them from snagging on the fabric during the wash cycle.
• Check for loose threads: Trim any loose threads that could unravel during washing.

The Washing Process: Step by Step

Machine Washing

If you're machine washing your denim jacket, follow these guidelines:

1. Use cold water only: Hot water is denim's enemy. It causes significant shrinkage and accelerates colour fading. Always select the cold water setting—30°C maximum.
2. Select a gentle cycle: Use the delicate or gentle cycle to minimise agitation. The less your jacket is tossed around, the better it will hold up over time.
3. Choose the right detergent: Use a mild, colour-safe detergent without bleach or optical brighteners. Better yet, use a detergent specifically formulated for dark or denim fabrics. Use less detergent than you think you need—excess soap is hard to rinse out completely.
4. Wash alone or with similar items: Wash your denim jacket alone or only with other dark, sturdy items. Light-coloured fabrics may pick up indigo dye, especially during the first few washes.
5. Skip the fabric softener: Fabric softener coats fibres and can interfere with denim's natural texture and the development of fade patterns.

Hand Washing (The Preferred Method)

For the gentlest clean that maximises the longevity of your jacket, hand washing is the way to go:

1. Fill a bathtub or large basin with cold water.
2. Add a small amount of mild detergent and swirl to dissolve.
3. Submerge your inside-out jacket and gently agitate the water with your hands.
4. Let the jacket soak for 15-30 minutes.
5. Drain the soapy water and refill with clean cold water.
6. Rinse thoroughly until no soap remains—this may take several rinses.
7. Gently press water out of the jacket. Never wring or twist, as this can distort the shape and create permanent creases.

Drying Your Denim Jacket Properly

How you dry your denim jacket is just as important as how you wash it. Improper drying is a leading cause of shrinkage and shape distortion.

Air Drying (Recommended)

Air drying is the safest method for denim:

• Lay the jacket flat on a clean towel, reshape it to its original form, and allow it to dry naturally.
• Alternatively, hang it on a sturdy hanger in a well-ventilated area, away from direct sunlight (which can cause uneven fading).
• If hanging, use a thick, padded hanger to maintain the shoulder shape.
• Allow plenty of time—denim can take 24-48 hours to dry completely.

Machine Drying (Use with Caution)

If you must use a dryer, remove the jacket while it's still slightly damp and let it finish air drying. Use the lowest heat setting and shortest cycle possible. Be aware that tumble drying will cause some shrinkage and accelerate the breakdown of cotton fibres over time.

Special Considerations for Raw and Selvedge Denim

If you own a raw (unwashed) or selvedge denim jacket, the washing rules are even more stringent. These premium denims are prized for developing unique fade patterns based on your wear, and washing too early can disrupt this process.

Many raw denim enthusiasts recommend waiting at least six months before the first wash, allowing the indigo to set and natural creases to form. When you do finally wash, a cold soak without detergent—just clean water—is often sufficient. The goal is to remove dirt and oils while preserving as much indigo as possible.

Dealing with Specific Stains

Different stains require different approaches:

• Oil or grease: Apply a small amount of dish soap directly to the stain, let it sit for 10 minutes, then spot clean with cold water.
• Food stains: Scrape off excess, then treat with a mixture of cold water and white vinegar before washing.
• Ink: Dab with rubbing alcohol using a cotton ball, being careful not to spread the stain.
• Mud: Let it dry completely, then brush off as much as possible before spot cleaning the remainder.

Final Thoughts

A well-cared-for denim jacket can last decades, developing a beautiful patina that's uniquely yours. The key is restraint—wash less, use cold water, and always air dry when possible. Your jacket will reward you with years of faithful service and a look that improves with age.

For more denim care advice, check out our guides on proper denim storage and repairing damaged denim.