Your Guide to Sustainable Denim

The denim industry has a complicated relationship with sustainability. Traditional denim production is notoriously resource-intensive—a single pair of jeans can require up to 10,000 litres of water to produce, and the dyeing process has historically involved toxic chemicals. Yet denim also represents one of fashion's most durable, long-lasting garments. Understanding how to navigate sustainable denim means both choosing better products and caring for what you own in environmentally conscious ways.

The Environmental Impact of Denim Production

Before exploring solutions, it's worth understanding why denim sustainability matters:

Water Consumption

Cotton farming is extraordinarily thirsty. Growing enough cotton for a single denim jacket requires approximately 3,000-5,000 litres of water, depending on farming methods and location. Add to this the water used in dyeing, washing, and finishing processes, and the total can climb significantly higher.

Chemical Usage

Traditional indigo dyeing involves synthetic chemicals that can pollute waterways if not properly managed. Distressing techniques often use chlorine, potassium permanganate, and other harsh chemicals. Workers in some facilities face health risks from exposure to these substances.

Carbon Footprint

From cotton farming to international shipping, denim has a substantial carbon footprint. Energy-intensive processes like sandblasting and stone washing add to emissions, as does the transportation of garments across global supply chains.

What Makes Denim "Sustainable"?

When evaluating sustainable denim, look for these key factors:

Organic Cotton

Organic cotton is grown without synthetic pesticides, herbicides, or fertilisers. This protects soil health, waterways, and the farmers who work the land. Organic cotton also typically uses less water than conventional cotton, though this varies by farming practices and location.

Look for certifications like GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) or OCS (Organic Content Standard) to verify organic claims.

Recycled Materials

Some brands now use recycled cotton—post-consumer denim and cotton waste that's broken down and respun into new yarn. While recycled cotton often needs to be blended with virgin fibres for strength, it significantly reduces the demand for new cotton cultivation.

You'll also find denim incorporating recycled polyester (from plastic bottles) in stretch blends, though purists prefer 100% cotton options.

Better Dyeing Practices

Sustainable brands are adopting cleaner dyeing methods:

• Foam dyeing: Uses up to 90% less water than traditional methods
• Natural indigo: Plant-based dyes derived from the indigofera plant
• Laser finishing: Creates distressed looks without water or chemicals
• Ozone washing: Reduces water and chemical usage in the finishing process

Fair Labour Practices

True sustainability encompasses social responsibility. Look for brands that ensure fair wages, safe working conditions, and reasonable hours for garment workers. Certifications like Fair Trade and SA8000 indicate commitment to worker welfare.

Brands Leading in Sustainable Denim

Several brands have made sustainability central to their denim production:

Nudie Jeans

The Swedish brand has set the gold standard for sustainable denim. All their cotton is organic, they offer free repairs for life on any Nudie product (even at their dedicated repair shops in select cities), and they run a recycling programme for worn-out jeans. Their transparency about production processes and commitment to fair labour practices make them a benchmark in the industry.

Levi's Water<Less™ Collection

Levi's, as one of the world's largest denim producers, has significant influence. Their Water<Less™ techniques have saved over 4 billion litres of water since 2011. While not all Levi's products are sustainable, their Wellthread collection represents their most environmentally conscious offerings.

Other Notable Mentions

• Patagonia: Uses organic cotton and recycled materials, known for repair programmes
• Outland Denim: Australian brand focused on ethical production and empowering vulnerable women through employment
• Mud Jeans: Pioneer in circular denim, offering leasing programmes and using recycled cotton

Sustainable Care: Reducing Your Impact

How you care for your denim jacket significantly affects its environmental footprint. Here's how to minimise impact:

Wash Less Often

Every wash uses water, energy, and detergent, and causes gradual wear on the fabric. As we cover in our washing guide, denim jackets rarely need washing—every 10-15 wears is sufficient for most people. Between washes:

• Spot clean minor stains
• Air out your jacket regularly
• Use the freezer method to kill odour-causing bacteria

Wash Cold, Air Dry

When you do wash, use cold water (which uses less energy than hot) and air dry instead of using the tumble dryer. This not only saves energy but extends the life of your jacket by preventing heat-related wear and shrinkage.

Use Eco-Friendly Detergent

Choose biodegradable, phosphate-free detergents. Use less than you think you need—most people over-measure, and excess detergent is hard to rinse out, requiring more water and potentially irritating skin.

Repair, Don't Replace

A ripped seam, missing button, or small hole doesn't mean your jacket's life is over. Basic repairs extend a jacket's life significantly and are often simple enough to do at home. For more complex issues, seek out a tailor or dedicated denim repair service. See our repair guide for DIY techniques.

Buying Sustainably: A Framework

When shopping for a denim jacket with sustainability in mind, consider this hierarchy:

1. Buy Less, Choose Well

The most sustainable option is to buy fewer, better things. One quality denim jacket worn for a decade beats five cheap jackets that fall apart after a season. Invest in something you'll genuinely love and wear regularly.

2. Consider Secondhand

Vintage and secondhand denim jackets have already been produced—buying them doesn't create new demand for manufacturing. Platforms like Depop, eBay, and local op shops often have excellent finds. Pre-worn denim also has character that new jackets lack.

3. Choose Sustainable Brands

If buying new, support brands making genuine sustainability efforts. Look for certifications, transparency about supply chains, and concrete environmental commitments rather than vague marketing language.

4. Prioritise Durability

A jacket that lasts 10 years is more sustainable than an "eco" jacket that falls apart after two, regardless of how it was made. Look for quality construction: strong stitching, quality hardware, substantial fabric weight.

The Circular Denim Economy

The future of sustainable denim lies in circularity—keeping materials in use rather than sending them to landfill. Here's how you can participate:

• Donate or sell: When you're done with a jacket, pass it on to someone who'll wear it
• Recycling programmes: Some brands (like Nudie Jeans and H&M) accept old denim for recycling
• Upcycling: Transform old jackets into new items—bags, cushions, or patched garments

Final Thoughts

Sustainable denim isn't about perfection—it's about making better choices where you can. The most sustainable denim jacket is often the one you already own, cared for properly and worn until it's truly worn out. When you do buy new, choosing thoughtfully and investing in quality will serve both you and the planet better than chasing trends with cheap, disposable fashion.

For more on caring for your denim to maximise its lifespan, read our guides on washing, storage, and repairs.